Ingredients
Equipment
Method
Brown the butter (do this first)
- Melt the butter in a light-colored pan over medium heat. Let it bubble and foam, swirling now and then, until the milk solids at the bottom turn golden brown and it smells nutty — about 6–8 minutes. Pour it into a bowl, solids and all, and let it cool.
- Weigh out 100 g of the cooled brown butter, spread it into a small container or on a plate, and freeze until solid. It needs to be rock hard before it goes anywhere near the dough.
Mix and ferment
- Whisk the starter into the water until it's cloudy and dispersed. Add the flour and mix by hand until no dry flour remains. Cover and rest for 45 minutes.
- Add the salt and work it through the dough by pinching and folding until it's evenly distributed.
- Bulk ferment at room temperature for about 5 hours, with four sets of stretch and folds spaced 30–45 minutes apart.
Add the butter (folds 3 and 4)
- Before the third fold, grate half the frozen brown butter on the coarse side of a box grater directly over the dough. Fold the dough over the shards. Work quickly — the butter needs to stay cold.
- Repeat with the remaining butter at the fourth fold. The dough will feel slacker and look streaky. That's correct.
Shape and proof
- Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and shape it into a tight oval. Dust the banneton generously with rice flour and place the dough in seam side up.
- Cover and cold proof in the fridge for 12–14 hours.
Bake
- Preheat 45–60 minutes ahead, as hot as the oven goes — around 250°C / 480°F — with a perforated baking tray on the middle rack and an empty metal roasting tray on the rack below. (Metal, never glass.) You're not waiting for the air to heat up; you're waiting for the trays to load up with heat.
- Tip the cold loaf onto a sheet of parchment, seam side down, and score it with one confident stroke about 1 cm / ½ in deep.
- Slide the parchment onto the hot perforated tray, immediately pour about 1 cup / 250 ml of just-boiled water into the roasting tray below (stand back), and shut the door fast. Bake at 250°C / 480°F for 20 minutes. Don't open the oven during this stage — every peek costs you steam, and steam is what gives you the ear.
- Pull out the roasting tray, drop the heat to 200°C / 390°F and bake another 15 minutes, until the crust is deep golden and the loaf sounds hollow when tapped underneath. Start checking at 10 minutes — the butter darkens the crust faster than a lean loaf, especially along the score.
- Cool completely on a wire rack before slicing.
Notes
Chef's tip: the butter has to be frozen solid and grated coarse. If it's soft it smears into the dough and you get a richer crumb — good, but nothing special. Frozen shards stay intact through shaping and only melt in the oven, leaving thin flaking planes behind in the crust.
